[n18]

Here is the company that seems to be making them:

http://www.dero.com/public-bike-repair.html

If it were me, I wouldn’t put these near metro stations or areas with heavy bus service; I could just take my bike home using Metro, then fix it later, so I don’t see the logic of having it in these locations. If I was using a bike that is not allowed on Metro, or if my home is too far from the nearest bus stop, then it could be useful, but such things are in the minority.

A more logical place perhaps is along trails, such as the intersection of W&OD and Custis trails, or near areas where thorn trees are too close to a trial. I have been only been biking for a year, so I don’t know how much further can I go on once I hit a thorn. I don’t go to Arlington often, so I am not sure where are the best places to put such stations, and what are the target bikers: commuters or tourists.

I was going to check if I could buy several floor pumps, put them every few miles on the W&OD, secure them with chains, but that would require too many pumps.

[n18]

If you have a smart phone, just use Google Maps(or Google.com if using non-Android phone), search for “grocery stores” or “department stores“, then “Get Direction”, then choose the bike symbol.

[n18]

Don’t feel bad about not replacing the bearing. Maybe next time. I learned that there is no such thing as a “bad choice”. If you made one, then you can’t change the past, just deal with it, move on, and don’t think about it…

[n18]

I checked Cannodale’s bikes archives for 2013 Road Bikes, and I assume that your bike is “Synapse Carbon 5 105”. According to the specs it has crank type “FSA GOSSAMER Pro, BB30, 50/34”. I searched YouTube for BB30 Replacement, and the first video shows the same problem that you have, and even the same bike. Here is the link to the first video just in case:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoUNL8FDweQ

If you search Amazon for “BB30“, you will find several tools(~$11-$35), including those in the video, and the bearing replacement kit(~$40).

From what I know, if dirt get into the mechanism, some of the bearing might go over tiny pieces of rocks, gets squeezed, then propelled instantly after moving over the tiny rock until it hits other bearings or the housing for the bearing, and that’s when you hear the clicking sound. If you keep riding, you make the bearing worse, but that’s not important if you replace it. If a shop tells you they will just clean it and put it back together, then it might still make sound as the bearing may have created groves in the metal to escape the dirt, so it’s better to replace it. Some shops may suggest replacing the crank as well($300+), but that is not necessary.

[n18]

@dkel 83772 wrote:

Going home with the Straggler may be a foregone conclusion anyway. I’m mostly concerned with fit; I already love the thing, and I’ve done copious amounts of research.

For basic bike fit, download the PDF file at the following web page:

http://bikefitkit.com/bike-fitting/how-to/use-smart-goniometer.html

You could order their kit, or use one of these protractors from Home Depot to measure the angles(I have the $9 one). By trial and error before using this method, I found that I could go uphill faster if I raise the seat by an inch or two but not more or less than in this range, and after measuring the angles at this new position, I found that they correspond with what’s mentioned in the PDF file. There are three positions to check, and the recommended angles are 90, 120, and 150 as mentioned in the PDF file.

If you have the time, watch this longish but very informative for “new” people video about Bike Fit. It covers both the biological and mechanical aspect of bike fit:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oxNznrlRXGU

[n18]

@dkel 83915 wrote:

I sooo want some of these. Not cheap, though, and the $15 cheap pannier I bought some months ago does work. Still…

Check out these Bushwacker panniers. You get two of them for the price of one($50 total). Each one is separate and independent. They are not attached to each other by a piece of cloth like some panniers, so you can use only one, and give or sell the other one, or use it on a different bike. I almost bought them, but I couldn’t find them in local stores, so I don’t know how easily they fold. I ended up buying Jandd Pannier from Green Lizard Cycling at Herndon. It included only one pannier, but it was good enough for me.

[n18]

First, check the bike store where you bought it from, it may have included free tune ups.

Second, there are a lot of YouTube videos about bike tune up. The problem that you mentioned is very common even for new bikes. It’s usually fixed by adjusting one thing that doesn’t require any special tools. The one you need to adjust is the “Adjusting barrel” in the picture at the link that peterw_diy posted. However, to understand how to adjust it requires watching some YouTube videos about Rear Derailleur Tune Up. In many of these videos they refer to two adjusting screws: High and Low. It can be confusing which one is for which, because many talk about high gear or low gear, then say big or small gear. Here is what H and L stand for:

• H: The smallest cog. Many manufacturers refer to it as “The High Gear”. This is what you use to go downhill faster. I prefer the term “High Speed” for less confusion.
• L: The biggest cog. Many manufacturers refer to it as “The Low Gear”. This is what you use to go uphill. I prefer the term “Low Speed” for less confusion.

Here is a play list by someone who explains how to fix or replace bike parts in an easy to understand manner. The best videos are at the bottom of the page:

http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL6D2D4EB862ECE34F

Most bike tune ups and part replacement can be done by common tools, like screw drivers, Hex, and adjustable wrenches. The ones that require special bike tools are:

• The Bottom Bracket($30 to $45, I have them).
• Cassette/Freewheel(The 7 to 10 gears attached to the real wheel) replacement require tools that cost $8-$23.
• Chain replacement($0 if the new chain comes with missing links and has the same number of links as your current chain, $17 otherwise).
• Not really a special bike tool, but for peddle replacement you might need Loctite Thread Locker. The blue is the recommended one, which makes it possible to remove later with hand tools. The red one is permanent and intended for other applications(Can be removed by heating the parts to 500 Degrees F, so don’t use it). The blue one is available from Home Depot or Lowe’s for $6.50.

Everything else as far as I know doesn’t require special tools for most bikes.

Some notable videos from the play list above:

How to Take Apart and Service the Bottom Bracket on a Bicycle:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VXQA4kNmhPA

How to True (Straighten) a Bicycle Wheel:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q6eOamGK2tY

How to Take Apart and Clean a Rear Derailleur on a Bicycle:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=psMCpico6OM

How to Replace a Chain on Bicycle:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qzchwI9SVs

[n18]

@n18 82796 wrote:

Hudson Trail Outfitters at Fairfax Circle have some cycling shoes at 70% off($30 to $40 after discount). They have like 10 left for men shoes, and about 15 to 20 women shoes. Most men shoes are of size 43 to 45, some 46, and the biggest size is 47.

They had this sale for a while(warehouse clearance), seems annual. They had some cycling clothes for 60% off, but I am not sure if this is still on.

This sale is only at their Fairfax location, not Arlington(Pentagon City). I am about 2 miles from there, so if you want me to check something out for you, let me know.

Their web site may not show what’s on sale, they only recently added online ordering, but if you click on “Outlet” and “Just Reduced” on the far right, you would see some items.

http://www.hudsontrail.com/

UPDATE May 26: It seems that they removed all shoes in the last 7 days, so they are no longer available.

Below is the list of cycling shoes that they have on clearance as of Saturday 4/26 (price changed for some shoes, so it’s between $30 and $50). Some notes:

• Since they don’t have many sizes, you might be tempted to buy a size that is slightly too large or slightly too small. Sizes from different brands and sometimes from the same brand; but from a different style, don’t fit in the same way, so you can’t try size 43 from one style, finding it to be too small, then try size 44 from a different style.
• Make sure that the shoe fits you without wiggle room, to take advantage of the power transfer. Hold the bottom of the shoe with both hands and shake it in different directions, including up and down and sideways.
• If you buy the wrong shoes for $30, and the right shoes for you costs $100, then you would spend $130 to get the right shoes, so get the right one the first time to save money. Currently they provide $20 store credit for spending $100 or more(Till Wednesday April 30), so $100 shoes would cost $80. They have similar offers every now and then.
• I am not an expert, I have only been biking for a year, so I don’t know a lot about cycling shoes. I have only begin using cycling shoes for few weeks.
• I don’t work for them. Never have, never will(I am a software developer).

Men Shoe Sizes(US to EUR).

Women Shoe Sizes(US to EUR).

Men’s shoes(click on the model number to see a picture):

[table=”width: 500, class: grid”]
[tr]
[td]Brand[/td]
[td]Model[/td]
[td]Sizes[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Shimano[/td]
[td]SH-SD66[/td]
[td]37-38,39-40[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Shimano[/td]
[td]SH-R077[/td]
[td]43,43,45,46[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Shimano[/td]
[td]SH-R095[/td]
[td]36,37[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Shimano[/td]
[td]SH-RT80[/td]
[td]43[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Giro[/td]
[td]Treble[/td]
[td]46[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Giro[/td]
[td]Trans[/td]
[td]43.5[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Scott[/td]
[td]Road Comp[/td]
[td]42,46,47[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Scott[/td]
[td]Tri Pro[/td]
[td]42,43,44,46(Qty 2)[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Scott[/td]
[td]MTB Team BOA[/td]
[td]46[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Scott[/td]
[td]Road Team BOA[/td]
[td]46[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Louis Garneau[/td]
[td]LG Multi[/td]
[td]44(Qty 2)[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Louis Garneau[/td]
[td]Revo XR3[/td]
[td]43[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Louis Garneau[/td]
[td]Ergo Air Road[/td]
[td]43[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Louis Garneau[/td]
[td]Le Tour[/td]
[td]44,46[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Louis Garneau[/td]
[td]Ventilator[/td]
[td]43,44[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Louis Garneau[/td]
[td]Trail X Grip[/td]
[td]44(Qty 2)[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Louis Garneau[/td]
[td]Tera Grip[/td]
[td]45[/td]
[/tr]
[/table]

Women’s shoes(click on the model number to see a picture):

[table=”width: 500, class: grid”]
[tr]
[td]Brand[/td]
[td]Model[/td]
[td]Sizes[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Shimano[/td]
[td]SH-M151[/td]
[td]38[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Shimano[/td]
[td]SH-M057[/td]
[td]36(Qty 5)[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Shimano[/td]
[td]SH-WM50[/td]
[td]38(Qty 2)[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Shimano[/td]
[td]SH-WR35[/td]
[td]38,40,41[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Shimano[/td]
[td]SH-WM51[/td]
[td]38[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Shimano[/td]
[td]SH-WF21[/td]
[td]39[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Scott[/td]
[td]Trail BOA Lady[/td]
[td]37(Qty 4)[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Scott[/td]
[td]Road Pro Lady[/td]
[td]37(Qty 2),38(Qty 2)[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Scott[/td]
[td]MTB Comp Lady[/td]
[td]38[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Louis Garneau[/td]
[td]Monte Rosa[/td]
[td]37,38(Qty 2),39[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Louis Garneau[/td]
[td]Terra MTB[/td]
[td]37,38(Qty 2)[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Louis Garneau[/td]
[td]Air Flora[/td]
[td]38(Qty 2)[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Louis Garneau[/td]
[td]Diva[/td]
[td]37[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Louis Garneau[/td]
[td]Terra Lite[/td]
[td]38[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Louis Garneau[/td]
[td]LG Multi[/td]
[td]37(Qty 2),38(Qty 2)[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Louis Garneau[/td]
[td]Ergo Air[/td]
[td]37[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Louis Garneau[/td]
[td]Multi RX[/td]
[td]38[/td]
[/tr]
[/table]

[n18]

@PeteD 83562 wrote:

And then…

http://www.sfgate.com/news/article/Tech-CEO-on-bike-arrested-in-Marin-road-rage-5429625.php

Not sure what the “Deadly Weapon” was… Morph G? Garmin 800? Water Bottle?

Probably U-Lock.

[n18]

I have written an example email below for you to send to VDOT as you know more about this issue than I am. I went to VDOT web site, and under Programs–>Bicycling and walking–>State Bicycle and Pedestrian Program, I found these 2 contacts:

State Bicycle and Pedestrian Coordinator
District Bicycle and Pedestrian Coordinators

When clicking on the District Coordinator, look for “Northern Virginia District”, and perhaps “Arlington County Trails”. I would contact the former at least.

Include all the information needed in the email, not just a link to this thread, so they don’t have to navigate through a lot of material to get the overall picture. I think it doesn’t matter if what’s under the bridge is a road or a trail. It’s their bridge and they already determined(after studying) that some lights should be there. The people telling you that a new study is needed perhaps think that it’s a brand new area with no lights at all.

I have written an example email below. Feel free to edit it and to include the pictures on page 2 of this thread if you want to. I have not sent them any emails since I don’t know about that area as much as you do. I don’t commute, and usually use my bike after 10 AM, so I don’t know what it’s like out there during rush hours, except for few times.

Example email:

Hi,

I am contacting you today to report non-working light fixtures under I-66 bridge that goes over Custis Trial at the following location:

https://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=38.879337,-77.136153&hl=en&sll=38.879337,-77.136147&sspn=0.00322,0.004823&mra=mift&mrsp=0&sz=18&t=m&z=18&lci=bike

There are three lights there, all non-working since around October-Novemer 2011. I tried contacting Arlington county and park authority officials, and they took a long time to tell me which other official to contact, and finally they are telling me that the bridge belongs to VDOT, and they can’t touch it, so I am hoping that you are the proper contact.

The trial is used by hundreds if not thousands of commuters every day. Each person commuting by bike is a car off the road, or less congestion on public transportation, so we have less traffic and easier morning and evening commute. It gets dark during morning or evening commute depending on the time of the year. Bike lights are inadequate as the area in question includes 90 degrees turns, so it’s impossible to see hazards on the road until it’s too late.

One of trail users took pictures of the area under the bridge and lights in question. You can see these pictures at page 2 of this thread:

http://bikearlingtonforum.com/showthread.php?6765-Underpass-of-Eternal-Darknesss/page2

I hope that you can take an action to get these lights fixed soon, as I and many commuters are relying on them…

Thank you

[n18]

The trial are unlikely to be shutdown, just not maintained, like tree or grass trimming around trials. But you won’t see an effect unless the shutdown takes too long(unlikely).

[n18]

I use Shimano SH-CT45 at the link that mstone posted, but I am new to cycling shoes. It’s very comfortable and breathable so it’s going to be good for summer time, although not for heavy rain. I could walk and stand on it for 2 hours easily. I am 5’2″, 185 lbs. Shoe size is usually 8.5 Wide, but size 43 fits me perfectly. It’s not very stiff(Stiffness Index=3), and despite being a perfect fit, I have a hard time unclipping, but like I said I am new to this. They make load cracking noises when I walk on sidewalks because of sand from winter treatment of roads and sidewalks, but this is gradually going away as the sand is blown away by wind and rain. On roads, they don’t make any noises. There are no SPD cleat covers in stores, only online, and they don’t last very long.

Almost nobody carries wide sizes, but those who ask for wide sizes usually find that regular sizes fit them just fine, but not every brand fit wide feet the same as others, so try them in store. I think that these are supposed to fit you like a glove, to improve power transfer. If you feel free movement when you shift your feet right and left or up and down, or you are not tying your shoe laces too tight, then that size may be too big for you.

You didn’t post if you are new to this, or whether you use the sidewalk, or the road mostly. If you come to a sudden stop for any reason(and this happens more often on sidewalks rather than roads), then you could fall if you don’t unclip in time. The first time I used it I fell, hurt my knee while stopping for someone on the sidewalk and forgetting to unclip. Now I am just restricting it to trial and some road use, and using knee pads just in case.

I use that shoes with Shimano A530 pedals(One side SPD, the other platform/flat), Performance Bike just started carrying them for $60, but they are not in their stores yet. I paid $64 for mine at REI with a 20% off coupon.

Again, please post if you are new to this, or whether you use the sidewalk, or the road mostly, and height/weight if possible.

[n18]

@Steve O 83051 wrote:

I cannot overemphasize how useful it is to have fenders on a commuter bike. Real fenders that curve over your wheels, not the straight ones that just stick out and pretend to protect your back from spray.

Dick Sporting Goods have decent fenders for $10. They have 2 types depending on wheel size:

http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3965237
http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3965236

[n18]

I tried seeing how long it takes me to use the same route through Tapawingo, then to W&OD while using my bike at a single speed the whole way. Here is the path I took.

It took me 38 Minutes for the whole way, waited about 3 minutes at signals. Google Map suggests 35 minutes, so it’s spot on. Here are gear ratios for the two single speed bikes compared with the bike I am using:

Bike Gears Ratio

Spot Dualie 50:24 2.083
Vilano EDGE 46:16 2.875
Fuji Crosstown 48:14 3.429
[/CODE]

Spot Dualie is the easiest(and slowest), while Vilano EDGE is harder, but faster. I configured my Fuji Crosstown to be as close as possible to Vilano EDGE, using gear ratio 38:14, or 2.714. At Tapawingo, I had to stand and peddle 2 to 3 times, but wasn’t very hard, I could live with it if my bike was stuck in that gear ratio. However, stopping and restarting at intersections, especially in the middle of an uphill, or roads intersecting the W&OD require standing and peddling. With a multi-gear bike, I don’t need to do that.

My conclusion: I think after you try a single speed bike, you are not going to wish that(well, may be 2 or 3 times):

I wish that I have a multi-gear bike so I can climb hills easier.

But rather than that, you will probably wish for this 100 times:

I wish that I have a multi-gear bike so I can go faster in this flat area or this down hill(There are too many of them).

After leaving the W&OD and heading south on Gallows road, I reached my top speed within seconds, so there was little point in peddling.

Like others said, you will find yourself tempted to use it more than just for commuting. Your commuting is small relative to what many here do. I do about 20 to 30 Miles per day when I use it, and I don’t feel fatigued until after about 2 to 3 hours. So for your commute, it almost doesn’t matter what type of bike you use, because 35 minutes is a short time to get fatigued, unless you are heavily overweight. I am 5’2″, weighing about 185 LBS, so hills should be easier for you since you probably weigh 20 to 30 LBS less, so you are not carrying extra weight like I do.[CODE]Bike Gears Ratio

Spot Dualie 50:24 2.083
Vilano EDGE 46:16 2.875
Fuji Crosstown 48:14 3.429
[/CODE]

Spot Dualie is the easiest(and slowest), while Vilano EDGE is harder, but faster. I configured my Fuji Crosstown to be as close as possible to Vilano EDGE, using gear ratio 38:14, or 2.714. At Tapawingo, I had to stand and peddle 2 to 3 times, but wasn’t very hard, I could live with it if my bike was stuck in that gear ratio. However, stopping and restarting at intersections, especially in the middle of an uphill, or roads intersecting the W&OD require standing and peddling. With a multi-gear bike, I don’t need to do that.

My conclusion: I think after you try a single speed bike, you are not going to wish that(well, may be 2 or 3 times):

I wish that I have a multi-gear bike so I can climb hills easier.

But rather than that, you will probably wish for this 100 times:

I wish that I have a multi-gear bike so I can go faster in this flat area or this down hill(There are too many of them).

After leaving the W&OD and heading south on Gallows road, I reached my top speed within seconds, so there was little point in peddling.

Like others said, you will find yourself tempted to use it more than just for commuting. Your commuting is small relative to what many here do. I do about 20 to 30 Miles per day when I use it, and I don’t feel fatigued until after about 2 to 3 hours. So for your commute, it almost doesn’t matter what type of bike you use, because 35 minutes is a short time to get fatigued, unless you are heavily overweight. I am 5’2″, weighing about 185 LBS, so hills should be easier for you since you probably weigh 20 to 30 LBS less, so you are not carrying extra weight like I do.

[n18]

First: the route

I walked and biked that segment many times on Lee Highway, using the sidewalk only. It’s not very bike friendly, but passable. I use a hybrid bike with front and seat suspension(Fuji Crosstown 1.3 2013, $350). Only the north side on Lee Highway has sidewalks. Here are some comments if you want to stick to Lee Highway(Going east while checking Google Maps):

• Between Vaden Dr and Nutley ST: Multispeed bike is required if you are going west, sometimes I just go to Vienna Metro, then south to Vaden Dr to avoid that uphill.
• Just east of Nutley ST, there is a gas station on the north side, and there is no accessibility entrance(not sure what else to call it) to the sidewalk. This is one of two areas that I have to stop and carry my bike over the edge of the sidewalk in the whole segment. After a while, I just could do it without getting off my bike.
• Between Hideaway RD and Hunter RD there is a hidden paved unmaintained bike path that is short, but has uphill spots. When you go west, the exit is in a very blind spot area for right-turning traffic, so just go north on Hideaway RD, and after about 10 Yards or so at the intersection, do a U-Turn.
• An alternative way between Nutley ST and Hunter RD exists on the south side, you don’t need to get off your bike, but there is a climb just east of the shopping center(near the barber shop). This gets you to sidewalks and service roads until you reach the intersection at Hunter RD. There is no sidewalk after Hunter RD on the south side.
• There is a small grassy segment with no sidewalk east of Espana CT, but there is a breakage in the sidewalk edge on both sides to let a bike to go through without having to stop. After that, there is a diesel station and service road that you can use to get to a sidewalk, and it’s easy after that if you use the service roads ahead.
• Just before Prosperity AVE you have to climb the sidewalk again.
• Between Prosperity AVE and Hilltop RD, go north on Prosperity AVE, then at the signal, go to the north side of Hilltop RD and use the sidewalk. After that, it’s a piece of cake.

Arlington BLVD(Route 50) is much worse, especially going west.

I tried going to Nutely, then Tapawingo, then to W&OD. Nutely is fine, but Tapawingo has some uphill/downhill areas.

If for any reason you try going south on Blake LN(Street name changes to Pickett RD), to Fair City Mall shopping center, then you get even a worse uphill than the one between Vaden Dr and Nutley ST. It’s even worse than any uphill I have seen in the entire W&OD. I am glad that I don’t need to go there that often.

Second: the bike

Most cheap bikes look nice, but take shortcuts in things that you don’t see. One important feature is what type of bottom bracket it has. Almost all Shwinn(including those in the $300 to $500 range) and some Diamond Back bikes use a regular bottom bracket that is not sealed, so after about 500 Miles(which takes 2 to 6 months based on use), you start hearing clicking and grinding noises from the dirt that gets into the bearing. To upgrade to a sealed bottom bracket, it costs you $15 to $25 at Amazon, or $30 at bike shops, and $30 for special hand tools to install it or remove it if you want to do it yourself, or pay a bike shop about $20 for the service. My bike has a sealed bottom bracket and after 2500 Miles, it’s still working smoothly.

Another feature is bike weight. Steel is heavier than Aluminum, and it’s harder to carry it on Metrobus if you need to.

The bike I am using is Fuji Crosstown 1.3 2013, I paid $350 for it. Fuji bikes seem to come with a sealed bottom bracket as a standard feature, and usually have better components for the price as compared to Shwinn, Diamond Back, and similar brands.

[Author]

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