Need an advise on 53/39 vs 50/34 Crankset

[RESTONTODC]

I have been riding FSA 50/34 for years and feel great. Recently, I bought a new upgraded bike with SRAM Red 53/39 crankset for weekend rides and often got drop on climbing the long hills. Would the 50/34 help?

Before buying another SRAM Red 50/34 Crankset, I want see if anyone else experienced the same issue or I’m getting old.

Thanks.
Rick

[CCrew]

Depends on the bike. My weight weenie carbon bike I run a 53/39 on and it’s perfect. Most of the rest have 50/34’s and I certainly can’t spin them out. Cross bike I had to give up on the 46/36 cross crank and put a 50/34 on it.

I’m 55, so age is subjective. I almost exclusively run big ring and tune the crank to that.

[JimF22003]

Since I restarted my riding “career” about 6 years ago I’ve only ridden compact setups (50/34 with 11/26 or 11/28 cassettes.) I’ll need this setup for the rest of my life probably (I’m 54.)

I’m rebuilding a bike that had some carbon damage repaired when the Ultegra Di2 stuff is available in the fall. I plan to use a standard crank setup (53/39 with 12/27) for times when I’m just riding on the trails or for flat rides on the Eastern Shore or other parts of VA that are flat. I did a couple of flat centuries this spring where I totaled between 200 and 250 feet of “climbing.” I think the standard setup will be great for that.

But if I had to choose only one setup, I guess I would have to stick with the compact (or stay away from the hills, which I wouldn’t want to do.)

[elcee]

What are the rear gears on the old and new bike?

[vvill]

I went from a triple to a 50/34 this year and was a bit afraid of not having enough range, as I like to ride steep hills. I calculated the gear ratios (on Sheldon Brown’s site) and figured with the drop in weight (25 => 20 lb bike), the difference on the granniest gear wasn’t too bad. I was right – still managed to conquer the steepest of the hills I regularly ride.

[Dirt]

Most non racers do just fine with 50/34. That 34 is nice when you hit Massanutten Mountain on the back half of a Skymass loop. That said, I switched my road bikes to 53/39 and my cross bike to 50/34. I don’t race anything, but the 50/34 on the cross bike is nice for gravel grinder rides.

As a side note, If you have a normal compact crank (50/34 and 110BCD) you can just replace the rings and run 52/36 or 38 comfortably. I did that for all of last season before stepping up to 53/39.

Love,

Pete

[RESTONTODC]

@elcee 7129 wrote:

What are the rear gears on the old and new bike?

Old commuter bike: 12/25
New Weekend Bike: 12/25

Thanks. I just found out the my cassette is a Shimano CS 6700 instead of SRAM Red.

Dam, I paid for a full SRAM RED groupset. The local bike shop took me for a ride again.

[CCrew]

@RESTONTODC 7164 wrote:

Old commuter bike: 12/25
New Weekend Bike: 12/25

Thanks. I just found out the my cassette is a Shimano CS 6700 instead of SRAM Red.

Dam, I paid for a full SRAM RED groupset. The local bike shop took me for a ride again.

No they didn’t. You’re running the best cassette to run with Red. Although the Red cassettes are light they’re noisy as heck. Almost constant chain clatter.

[Dirt]

@CCrew 7166 wrote:

No they didn’t. You’re running the best cassette to run with Red. Although the Red cassettes are light they’re noisy as heck. Almost constant chain clatter.

I second that. Switch the SRAM chain for DuraAce and you’ll notice even better shifting.

[ponchera]

hey everyone, i’m new here (first post). I’m also new to cycling world, just started this month. I’m trying to learn more about bikes and the different sports but one thing has always confused me, which is this entire conversation.

I try to follow along and google about all these ##/## but i end up more confused. anyone have a sesame street explanation or link? i tried reading sheldon brown’s page:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gain.html

but that made things worse.. …

I bought a 2011 Cannondale CAADX 105 (http://www.cannondale.com/bikes/road/cyclocross/2011-cyclocross-caadx/2011-caadx-105 )
i’m not even sure what ##/## i have and what it’s limitations are, i’d love to know more about what i have (hopefully the answer is, its sucks). I bought it cause it was the only Cyclo i could find in the area in stock and my size.

I know I can now climb up the trail in rosslyn (custis?) without passing out in the first 100ft.
(I had a cheap MTB, that thing sucked, it was like pedaling a tank).

thanks for the patience.

[CCrew]

@ponchera 7619 wrote:

I bought a 2011 Cannondale CAADX 105 (http://www.cannondale.com/bikes/road/cyclocross/2011-cyclocross-caadx/2011-caadx-105 )
i’m not even sure what ##/## i have and what it’s limitations are, i’d love to know more about what i have (hopefully the answer is, its sucks). I bought it cause it was the only Cyclo i could find in the area in stock and my size.

That’s pretty much a pure play cyclocross bike. While I didn’t see it listed in the spec I’d pretty much expect it to be a 46/36 cross crank. Optimal for cyclocross, and actually not bad for day to day use, especially if you’re subject to a lot of hills. Nice bike with a good component spec. Hard to go wrong with a Cannondale, and if you’re looking at it as a commuter it’s also a good choice.

If you’re new at this (and welcome to the forum!) don’t overthink all the specs and ratios. You’ll get lost in numbers and opinions and at the end of the day it’s all about enjoying the ride anyway.

Regards,
Roger

[Greenbelt]

Second the idea that CX bikes are great for commuting. Check your braking power before commuting in heavy rain. I had to Flintstone my old CX bike a few times on rainy days before I upgraded the brakes.

[Dirt]

@Greenbelt 7627 wrote:

Second the idea that CX bikes are great for commuting. Check your braking power before commuting in heavy rain. I had to Flintstone my old CX bike a few times on rainy days before I upgraded the brakes.

Sorry to follow this topic more than the one originally discussed: Cantilever brake set-up is definitely a little more challenging. I’ve never had a problem with them actually not stopping me though… even on carbon rims. For their intended purpose (slowing and stopping on cyclocross courses) they are perfect. Modern dual-pivot road brakes and disc brakes give more power than cantis.

[CCrew]

@Dirt 7628 wrote:

Modern dual-pivot road brakes and disc brakes give more power than cantis.

Dunno Dirt. The Avid Shorty Ultimates I just bought just flat rock. Totally impressive for canti’s

[ponchera]

thanks for the input on my bike. i’m a pretty happy with it but you did hit the one point that even my ignorant self noticed. braking. I told the LBS when i purchased it that i felt they were deficient, they adjusted, sent me on my way. I came back a week later to get them looked at again as it seemed like the cables were a bit loose and pads were rubbing on the rim at an angle and not making full contact. They again adjusted. I read a post over at BikeForums where someone was also pissed, recommended ditching the pads and putting some Kool Stop salmons on at minimum. That poster went on to replace the entire canti system for some other system, i forget what it was, i asked for some details but haven’t heard back. I may just ask you nice folks here for some guidance. I purchased the salmons but have been reluctant to go to LBS since they told me the original ones are fine and I don’t need to replace them, also don’t want to pay i bet some silly high rate to have a couple screws removed.

Any ways. thanks for input and I don’t want to high jack this thread. I’ll probably open a new one once i research how to change the break pads if I have any questions.

(BTW, i’m still curious to understand what 46/36 vs 53/39 vs 50/34 all means… )

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