Is this a worthwhile deal?

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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 38 total)
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  • #915576
    cvcalhoun
    Participant

    Bike disaster today! I put my bike (an ancient Trek 7200) on the bike rack on the back of my car. We went over a bump, the bike rack broke, and the bike fell to the ground so hard that the rear wheel is so bent as to be unrideable. I’d already been told that the bike needed so much in the way of repairs that it might be better just to get a new bike, so it’s probably not worthwhile to replace the wheel. But that means that instead of having some time to look around, I really need to replace my bike ASAP.

    I’m looking at this ad on Craigslist, and it’s looking very appealing. The model is Trek 7300, which is a slight upgrade to the one I previously had. One in my size (which appears to be a women’s 19″) would be $290. Looking at Bicycle Blue Book, that seems to be a very fair price for a 2012 model in new condition–not even counting the fact that it already has a rack installed on the back.

    Can anyone think of what I might be missing, or what I should be looking for when I check these bikes out?

    #1005618
    KLizotte
    Participant

    So sorry to hear of your loss. Honestly, the ad seems a little like a scam to me. Irrespective of that, I once owned a 7300 very much like the women’s version pictured. Built like a tank but also as heavy as one too. You may wish to look at a bike that is much lighter and doesn’t have shocks.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    #1005629
    cvcalhoun
    Participant

    Update: Here’s what the seller e-mailed to me:

    2012 Treks I have:

    All bikes are sold with the $60 msrp rear ultra lightweight Bontrager racks. Some of the bikes have expensive bells. All have light use, were used on weekends on paved flat roads in a guided tour that you were not allowed to stray from. The bikes have very little wear.

    13.5″ (female) = 14 bikes $250
    (The 13.5″ frame treks are bigger than they appear and can fit taller people as well as shorter people. I am 5’9 male and can even ride this size. Great universal fit for 4′ to 5’7).
    15″ (male) = 9 bikes. $290
    16″ (female) = 7 bikes $290
    17.5″ (male) = 9 bikes $290
    19″ (female) = 3 bikes $290
    20″ (male) = 2 bikes $290

    As far as the “built like a tank” part goes, remember that what I’ve been riding is a Trek 7200. As far as I can make out, the 7300 is a slight upgrade, but not all that different.

    #1005637
    Emm
    Participant

    There’s a 17 inch 2012 womens trek 7200 for $225 or $250 being sold by a tenant in my building (Rosslyn). I think it’s purple. I haven’t seen it, but if your interested let me know and I’ll get the info for you. I might be wrong on the model, but I’m pretty sure it’s 7200.

    #1005645
    DismalScientist
    Participant

    Check out this thread: http://bikearlingtonforum.com/showthread.php?5931-What-do-you-think-of-the-Kona-Dew

    I would suggest you test ride a flat bar road bike and compare with a standard hybrid. You are welcome to do a comparison test ride between my wife’s Trek 7300 (older, no suspension fork) and her flat bar road bike. If you want the Trek, you can have it at a reasonable price. Kathy is right: it is a tank. Also, unless you do off-road mountain biking, I would never recommend front shocks.

    Unless I am misremembering your size, a 19″ frame sounds much too big. Maybe a 15″ would be more appropriate.

    #1005647
    cyclingfool
    Participant

    The claim that there’s a $60 retail Bontrager rack on it seems off; I think that value is probably overstated. Bontrager have one rack that costs $75; all others are less than $50. (source)

    To each his own, but I’d avoid any bike with a suspension fork like the plague, unless 1) it could be locked out and 2) I was actually going to do some serious offroad riding (C&O does not count).

    I think you’d be better off looking for a well-maintained rigid MTB like this that’s in your size and commuterizing as necessary, slick tires, fenders, racks if needed – or if you want 700c wheels, go with a hybrid, But whatever you do, I’ll add my voice to the chorus saying go with a rigid fork.

    #1005658
    KLizotte
    Participant

    To be fair, the 7300 was a very fun bike to ride and I was able to do metric centuries on it fairly easily so long as there weren’t any huge hills but taking things to the next level in terms of speed and distance necessitated buying a regular road bike. It was also a huge relief not to have to lift something so heavy into my car or try to maneuver such a large bike in elevators. It was a great bike for grocery shopping though since I had a large basket on the back. The front shocks definitely did not add to the comfort of the ride and only added to the weight. If you want to get better at hills and ride faster, you need a lighter bike that is less upright.

    I know it sucks to be without a bike but I would highly suggest taking the time to really do some research and test riding to find the right bike; you are gonna be stuck with it for a long time (hopefully).

    #1005668
    cvcalhoun
    Participant

    What size is your wife’s? I tried a 16″ Trek 7300, and a 19″ Raleigh, today, and the 19″ definitely felt like the better size.

    @DismalScientist 90003 wrote:

    Check out this thread: http://bikearlingtonforum.com/showthread.php?5931-What-do-you-think-of-the-Kona-Dew

    I would suggest you test ride a flat bar road bike and compare with a standard hybrid. You are welcome to do a comparison test ride between my wife’s Trek 7300 (older, no suspension fork) and her flat bar road bike. If you want the Trek, you can have it at a reasonable price. Kathy is right: it is a tank. Also, unless you do off-road mountain biking, I would never recommend front shocks.

    Unless I am misremembering your size, a 19″ frame sounds much too big. Maybe a 15″ would be more appropriate.

    Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

    #1005669
    cvcalhoun
    Participant

    Unfortunately, I think the 17″ would be too small. I tried a 16″ today, and it definitely was.

    @Emm 89995 wrote:

    There’s a 17 inch 2012 womens trek 7200 for $225 or $250 being sold by a tenant in my building (Rosslyn). I think it’s purple. I haven’t seen it, but if your interested let me know and I’ll get the info for you. I might be wrong on the model, but I’m pretty sure it’s 7200.

    Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

    #1005670
    DismalScientist
    Participant

    Both bikes are 15″.
    The site where I bought the flat bar road bike suggest that 15″ is appropriate between 5’1″ and 5’4″ and a 19″ is appropriate between 5’9″ and 5’11”. I bought a 21″ bike of the same bike, which seems right, although according to the site I am between a 19″ and 21″.

    Seat tube length shouldn’t be too much of an issue on a step through bike, as you can always raise the seat. It seems that you want a bike with a longer effective top tube, which may mean that you naturally want something with a more aggressive, less upright geometry. (i.e. you may want more of a road bike.:rolleyes:) This can also be accomplished by a longer stem or, if the bike comes with an adjustable stem, make the stem more horizontal.

    P.S. What kind of bike is the damaged one? I might be able to loan you a rear wheel while you decide on a replacement bike.

    #1005677
    cvcalhoun
    Participant

    Yeah, I’m 5’9″. Damaged bike is a Trek 7200. A loaner wheel would be wonderful, but I’m not sure how I’d get to you. Part of the problem is that we have only one car, and a totally frantic schedule where we need to be different places at the same time, for the next 3 days.

    @DismalScientist 90029 wrote:

    Both bikes are 15″.
    The site where I bought the flat bar road bike suggest that 15″ is appropriate between 5’1″ and 5’4″ and a 19″ is appropriate between 5’9″ and 5’11”. I bought a 21″ bike of the same bike, which seems right, although according to the site I am between a 19″ and 21″.

    Seat tube length shouldn’t be too much of an issue on a step through bike, as you can always raise the seat. It seems that you want a bike with a longer effective top tube, which may mean that you naturally want something with a more aggressive, less upright geometry. (i.e. you may want more of a road bike.:rolleyes:) This can also be accomplished by a longer stem or, if the bike comes with an adjustable stem, make the stem more horizontal.

    P.S. What kind of bike is the damaged one? I might be able to loan you a rear wheel while you decide on a replacement bike.

    Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

    #1005681
    DismalScientist
    Participant

    Oops… I misremembered your height.:rolleyes:

    #1005683
    cvcalhoun
    Participant

    Honestly, I keep being told I want a road bike, but I’m mystified as to why. The advantages seem to be:
    1. It goes faster. But I don’t want fast. Heavy and slow = safer, and I want safer.
    2. It’s more efficient. But if what I’m trying to do is burn calories, more efficient doesn’t seem better.

    Meanwhile, I see huge disadvantages to a road bike. I want to be able to ride as upright as possible, so I can see the scenery and what’s ahead of me, and to minimize pressure on my wrists. I want wide tires that can handle the rutted mud of the Georgetown Branch Trail, or the snow and ice of a Dc winter. I want a bike that is sturdy and rarely needs servicing. I want a bike on which I can carry groceries, or pull a bike trailer. And I want a bike I can afford both to buy, and to get parts for as needed.

    #1005688
    TwoWheelsDC
    Participant

    @cvcalhoun 90042 wrote:

    Honestly, I keep being told I want a road bike, but I’m mystified as to why. The advantages seem to be:
    1. It goes faster. But I don’t want fast. Heavy and slow = safer, and I want safer.
    2. It’s more efficient. But if what I’m trying to do is burn calories, more efficient doesn’t seem better.

    Meanwhile, I see huge disadvantages to a road bike. I want to be able to ride as upright as possible, so I can see the scenery and what’s ahead of me, and to minimize pressure on my wrists. I want wide tires that can handle the rutted mud of the Georgetown Branch Trail, or the snow and ice of a Dc winter. I want a bike that is sturdy and rarely needs servicing. I want a bike on which I can carry groceries, or pull a bike trailer. And I want a bike I can afford both to buy, and to get parts for as needed.

    Ride whatever is most comfortable/affordable/whatever to you…the best bike for you is one you ride. That said, “road bike” is a fairly generic term that many use as shorthand for “any bike with drop bars”, and there are plenty that fit all your criteria as well (if not better) as any hybrid. Just something to keep in mind.

    #1005690
    jrenaut
    Participant

    @cvcalhoun 90042 wrote:

    Honestly, I keep being told I want a road bike…

    What we mean is you want a road bike and a cross bike and a mountain bike and another cross bike to put panniers and fenders on as a great commuter and a fixie and a single-speed mountain bike and a cruiser and a cruiser with an 8-speed internal hub and a longtail and another road bike just in case and a….

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