Flat-bar commuter or drop-bar tourer?

[Dirt]

Some people ride with their heels in, some ride with their heels out. Some are more neutral. Cleat adjustment for some pedals can help with this, but may not be enough. Size of the bike would likely impact heel clearance because of crank length. I haven't looked at the specs on this bike, but many bikes go to longer cranks for larger sizes to keep them proportionally sized to their riders.

I've had a few bikes with similarly placed rear brakes and not had a problem. It is a very good reason to test ride a bike... and make sure that you test ride it in the correct size.

Rock on, folks

Pete

[Rod Smith]

I would advise against setting cleat angle to accommodate the bike's design rather than to accommodate the rider's anatomy. Forcing the foot into an unnatural position can lead to knee problems.

Pete, I assume your feet are big. Do you ride with heels out? If so, is this your feets natural position? For instance, if you sat on a table with your feet hanging free, do your toes point in a little bit?

Is there any reason to run the brake line along the chainstay/downtube other than aesthetics?

[mstone]

Is there any reason to run the brake line along the chainstay/downtube other than aesthetics?

Mounting the disc brake that way can make it easier to mount fenders & rack.

[Dirt]

Mounting the disc brake that way can make it easier to mount fenders & rack.

Yup. What he said.

Surly designed their own proprietary adapter to put 160mm rotors on the back of the Troll and Ogre frames in order to make the dropouts more friendly for racks, fenders and trailer hitches. They also radically curve the chain and seat stays in order to maximize tire and heel clearance. Also lets them put the Fatties Fit Fine sticker down there.

[Rod Smith]

After I asked that, I looked at my bike and it seems the rotor is very far inboard from the dropouts and the brakes do not stick out as far as the frame does. So it seems to me that the brake mechanism shouldn't be in the way of a rider's heel even if aligned with the chainstay, unless it protrudes to the side more than mine (or the stays are radically curved).

My bike has curved chainstays. Straight ones work better with my trailer hitch, but these work ok. My rack is not a disc specific model but it works fine with the seat stay routed brake lines on my bike. The rack is very close to the brake, but not touching.

[KelOnWheels]

PANIC! AT THE DISCO!

So it looks as if I shall have the funds to purchase a fine new velocipede here shortly, and I have NO FREAKING IDEA of how to actually do this.

How do I pick?

Where do I go?

What if I buy the WRONG ONE?

AAAAAAAH!

[vvill]

Best problem to have in the world!

It is also a problem with no solution, or perhaps more accurately infinite solutions (n+1).

[TwoWheelsDC]

PANIC! AT THE DISCO!

So it looks as if I shall have the funds to purchase a fine new velocipede here shortly, and I have NO FREAKING IDEA of how to actually do this.

How do I pick?

Where do I go?

What if I buy the WRONG ONE?

AAAAAAAH!

Time to go shopping! Did you decide on flat or drop bars?

[KelOnWheels]

Did you decide on flat or drop bars?

Erm... yes.

[TwoWheelsDC]

Erm... yes.

I tell you what, if I had a chance to go back and buy my commuter again, I'd get something with discs. So maybe a Disc Trucker, Raleigh Sojourn, the new (I think?) Specialized TriCross elite, or maybe Kona Sutra or Jake. I think those would be easier to find and test ride than something like a Soma or Salsa, but others may know better than me on that. I think the Jake seems like the best value, but it's aluminum and therefore only a figment of your imagination, since only steel is real.