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Thread: Adjusting cantilever brakes so they don't scream at me all the time

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoWheelsDC View Post
    Mini V's though, right? Regular v-brakes have a different cable pull and require a stupid adapter for STI levers, which make them worse than cantis in my experience.
    Yeah, correct. I was still talking in general (or about MTB) there.

    I don't have any experience with the adapters, but makes sense that it wouldn't work as well.

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    I'm perfectly happy with my Tektro Cr720 (wide profile canti brakes). If the toe-in is correct and they still squeal it could be something on the rim or brake pad. Just use a green scrubby pad to give the rims and pads a good wipe. Wipe again with rubbing alcohol (or a baby wipe).

    There are tons of disk-braked bikes out there squeeeling away. The grass is always greener.

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    Quote Originally Posted by FFX_Hinterlands View Post
    There are tons of disk-braked bikes out there squeeeling away. The grass is always greener.
    This is true. My Straggler front disc squealed all the time till I swapped the stock BB7s for Spyres I bought used from Hozn for a song. Now they’re silent.

    Speaking of getting things for a song, I’m actually a professional choirmaster, so if anyone has nice gear they want to part with for a song, let me know: I can hook you up.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jrenaut View Post
    I believe you - I know you don't mess around with your equipment. But that's the style of brake on the kids' bikes and my mom's super cheap hybrid, so I assumed the entire style of brake was bad, not just the low end versions.
    They're actually direct-pull cantilever brakes, so not all that much different. The advantage is basically that the cable just pulls the two ends together directly, so there are fewer pieces to stretch and fewer things to adjust. You also don't need to mount a cable stop somewhere above the front brake, which can be annoying with a suspension fork. The down side (as alluded to earlier) is that they have less clearance for big tires. Cheap brakes of any design are cheap because they spec thin arms, which flex and brake like crap. Cheap bikes almost always have direct-pull cantilevers because they're the lowest common denominator for hybrid-style bikes, but that doesn't mean that they're inherently bad.

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    I know that this has been answered, but this one minute YouTube video shows how to stop the squeaking after installing new pads. If it's an old pad that keep squeaking, even if it's dry, then the pads are probably totally worn and the metal part of the pad is rubbing against the rim. If you don't replace it immediately, you end up like me, paying $90 for a new wheel, instead of $5 for new pads.

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    Quote Originally Posted by n18 View Post
    I know that this has been answered, but this one minute YouTube video shows how to stop the squeaking after installing new pads. If it's an old pad that keep squeaking, even if it's dry, then the pads are probably totally worn and the metal part of the pad is rubbing against the rim. If you don't replace it immediately, you end up like me, paying $90 for a new wheel, instead of $5 for new pads.
    Yay! New wheel day!!! There's always a bright side, man.

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    Success - I got the pads adjusted properly. One of the pads was missing one of the pieces that lets you adjust the angle, so that's why I couldn't get it right. But now my bike stops quietly and I'm happy.

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    If you wanna go baller there's also these
    https://paulcomp.com/shop/components/minimoto/

    Can be found cheaper on the 'bay. I'm planning to swap my folding bike's front brake to one of these. I used to have mini-Vs then I stole those for another build and then switched to regular Vs I stole off a bike I converted to disc. Stopping power right now is good but due to cable pull there's very little modulation and not much room for adjustment.

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