Daenaerys Targaryen the breaker of chains

[lordofthemark]

We do not seem to have a consensus here. I guess maybe try the crank arm first (I think the bike room has one of those taper things) and then go ahead and break the chain - using pliers if I can find them in our general purpose tool chest, or the regular chain break tool otherwise (and worry about the rivet later). BTW, the chain has 3000 miles on it.

[TwoWheelsDC]

We do not seem to have a consensus here. I guess maybe try the crank arm first (I think the bike room has one of those taper things) and then go ahead and break the chain - using pliers if I can find them in our general purpose tool chest, or the regular chain break tool otherwise (and worry about the rivet later). BTW, the chain has 3000 miles on it.

If you pull the crank arm, you won't need to break the chain. The converse isn't necessarily true.

[Crickey7]

BTW, the chain has 3000 miles on it.

That nails it for me. It's generally due anyway (which may be one of the reasons it came off). And the yanking and twisting forces probably stretched it further.

[lordofthemark]

That nails it for me. It's generally due anyway (which may be one of the reasons it came off). And the yanking and twisting forces probably stretched it further.

Does it change to not doing the crank arm first? I'd rather not mess with the crank arm if I can avoid it.

[Crickey7]

There are no guarantees, but I think you're more likely to be able to get it out without removing the crank arm if you've decided the chain cannot be salvaged.

[n18]

You can buy a second master link for $5(Links: Performance, REI, Spokes(Not in stock?)). REI has been offering for months at least 10% off drivetrain components, so you can buy 3 chains, or 2 master links and a chain to qualify. This is in addition to the 10% store credit, or the equivalent of 19% discount.

Also, this tool both opens and closes master links. I bought it after hurting my hand while using the pliers method to open chain links.

[n18]

BTW, the chain has 3000 miles on it.

Recently, I discovered that my chain is stretched beyond 0.5% and 0.75% on the chain indicator tool. It had 1600 Miles and 6 months on it and I oiled it maybe 3 times.

[hozn]

I'd actually make the counterpoint that this chain has too many miles on it to be worth changing. You'll likely need a new cassette if you put a new chain on now. (Or maybe it won't make much difference, but either way, the new chain isn't going to do anything for the life of your cassette.) So, keep the 3k-miles chain and run it down with the cassette. You should get another 2-3k miles out of both of them, I'd think.

[Harry Meatmotor]

We do not seem to have a consensus here. I guess maybe try the crank arm first (I think the bike room has one of those taper things) and then go ahead and break the chain - using pliers if I can find them in our general purpose tool chest, or the regular chain break tool otherwise (and worry about the rivet later). BTW, the chain has 3000 miles on it.

regardless of consensus, my opinion as a mechanic with 20+ years experience is that crank arm will likely need to be removed to un-entangle the chain. using a square taper crank arm puller is not without its pitfalls; it is very easy to cross-thread the tool into the crank arm, and if the puller strips the threads on the crank arm, you're hosed (unless you have a Hozan JIS thread cutter/helicoil kit).

The chain, although it's worn, doesn't need to be broken. I would inspect it for bent links, however. I would also inspect the chain rings for bent teeth, and readjust the front derailleur after re-installing the crank arm.

Edit: If you're uncomfortable with either removing a crank arm or breaking a chain, you should take your bike to a shop.

[lordofthemark]

Step one. Check the chain.

It is stretched.





Oddly though, the tool goes in more easily at the 1.0 mark, than at the .75 mark. Could that be because the tool is bent?