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Thread: Beltdrive Internal Gear Bikes

  1. #11
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    I was a fan of my two belt drive bikes but I ended up selling both of them and now have a 1x11 regular chain powered doohickie.

    As some have mentioned, the cleanliness of the belt can be slightly overstated, though the lack of maintenance is 100% spot on. I would ask for a demonstration/tutorial on rear wheel removal/tensioning on whatever model you are looking into and consider it a major factor in what you purchase.

    Some companies have very clumsy systems that require a lot of work to get the tensioning back/wheel on correctly, while others have some amazing designs that are much simpler to get the rear wheel back in just the right place. Also, rear wheel flats can be a pita.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by dplasters View Post
    I would ask for a demonstration/tutorial on rear wheel removal/tensioning on whatever model you are looking into and consider it a major factor in what you purchase.

    Some companies have very clumsy systems that require a lot of work to get the tensioning back/wheel on correctly, while others have some amazing designs that are much simpler to get the rear wheel back in just the right place. Also, rear wheel flats can be a pita.
    ^^^^ This.

    I'd been meaning to come back and post again to point this out, but dplasters has handled it beautifully. Belt tension is important. All of these bikes have a way to get the belt through the frame. Some of them make it really easy to get the wheel back on with the exact same belt tension as before, others make it nearly impossible. I've heard really good things about Spot's design, for instance.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by chris_s View Post
    ^^^^ This.

    I'd been meaning to come back and post again to point this out, but dplasters has handled it beautifully. Belt tension is important. All of these bikes have a way to get the belt through the frame. Some of them make it really easy to get the wheel back on with the exact same belt tension as before, others make it nearly impossible. I've heard really good things about Spot's design, for instance.
    And THIS was why in the end I couldn't stand the Breezer long term, as it tensions not through sliding dropouts like Spot, my new bike, or (I believe) the Soma frame, but through and eccentric bottom bracket. And even though it shouldn't, changing the tire always got the tension out of whack and required adjustment.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by LhasaCM View Post
    And THIS was why in the end I couldn't stand the Breezer long term, as it tensions not through sliding dropouts like Spot, my new bike, or (I believe) the Soma frame, but through and eccentric bottom bracket. And even though it shouldn't, changing the tire always got the tension out of whack and required adjustment.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
    Why did you have to readjust the EBB after a wheel removal? I have a few EBB bikes, and I don't need to adjust the EBB every time I take off the wheel. Is it the belt that makes things wonky?

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by drevil View Post
    Why did you have to readjust the EBB after a wheel removal? I have a few EBB bikes, and I don't need to adjust the EBB every time I take off the wheel. Is it the belt that makes things wonky?
    On the Breezer, it was an externally bearing bottom bracket. So I think that particular design was problematic for a number of reasons. I don't think it was a belt-specific issue and may just have been me and my bike. However, a more common EBB design wouldn't have had the same issues, I believe.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by LhasaCM View Post
    And THIS was why in the end I couldn't stand the Breezer long term, as it tensions not through sliding dropouts like Spot, my new bike, or (I believe) the Soma frame
    The Soma has vertical dropouts that slide in the frame, which means that you can set the tension by sliding the dropout, and then lock the dropout in that position such that when you remove the wheel it goes back into exactly the same place it was before. The disc caliper slides with the dropout as well, so there is no readjusting the brake every time you remove the wheel—or even when you have to slide the dropout.

  7. #17
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    Mar 2014
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    I was tempted to buy one of these chainless bikes with internal gear hub, but it's of bad quality, unknown speed at 60 RPM cadence, and they weigh 36 LBS according to the manufacturer, because the front gearing needs lots of enforcement:

    7 Speeds:
    https://www.amazon.com/Sonoma-Chainl...dp/B002AHWKFY/

    3 Speeds:
    https://www.amazon.com/Sonoma-Chainl...dp/B002AHSPHG/

    Manufacturer link:

    http://www.dynacraftwheels.com/sonoma

    However, I posted it just in case some of you are interested. Google Shopping seems to have better results than Amazon though.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by n18 View Post
    I was tempted to buy one of these chainless bikes with internal gear hub, but it's of bad quality, unknown speed at 60 RPM cadence, and they weigh 36 LBS according to the manufacturer, because the front gearing needs lots of enforcement:

    7 Speeds:
    https://www.amazon.com/Sonoma-Chainl...dp/B002AHWKFY/

    3 Speeds:
    https://www.amazon.com/Sonoma-Chainl...dp/B002AHSPHG/

    Manufacturer link:

    http://www.dynacraftwheels.com/sonoma

    However, I posted it just in case some of you are interested. Google Shopping seems to have better results than Amazon though.
    I haven't seen a *new* shaft drive bike in like, forever! (Larry @ The Old Bike Shop has a 1900-ish one in the window at his shop...)

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