Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 48

Thread: Drive train dilemmas

  1. #21
    hozn's Avatar
    hozn is offline I really need to log off the internet and go for a ride.
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Arlington
    Posts
    3,203
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    To be fair to the original question, I don't think there's a huge reliability difference between Sram and Shimano. I wasn't there (someday!), but would suggest that maybe for DK200, the difference might have been the more moving parts (i.e. front derailleur) of the Shimano systems just increasing the likelihood that something would go wrong. Shimano doesn't have a 1x solution (that doesn't require cobbling together third party components to increase RD capacity, or adapt cable pull, etc.). Though I would say that my experience has been that SRAM rear shifting does work better in harsh conditions, so that might have been a factor.

    I like the size of the Shimano levers, but not a fan of all the plastic. My 5700 (105) levers started falling apart after a few years (I don't remember exactly, but there was a piece in the lever blade that broke free, for example), but I was generally able to superglue them to keep things functional..

    I've also crashed and broken a SRAM Force (carbon) lever but was able to order the parts for that and replace that myself, which was nice.

    On my left SRAM HRD Force lever, the pin holding the brake lever blade started backing out during use. I have no idea why. I had to superglue that, which worked fine. Haven't had that issue on my other Force 1 brake lever, so must have been some defect or something in that particular one.

    But in general, I think SRAM is a great company. I wish SRAM components were cost-competitive with Shimano. I'd definitely consider Di2 for Shimano if going for a traditional (2x11) road-bike setup, though I don't really see that in my future (heck, 3T just released an aero road bike designed for 1x12). I *do* prefer Shimano hydraulic brakes, but the difference in actual performance is not huge and I'm very happy with my SRAM brakes.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Arlington, VA
    Posts
    361
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Daunted by the price tag to go full SRAM, I've been pursuing the idea of sticking with Ultegra. It is nice stuff, the smooth feel is part of what makes this bike such a joy to ride, and presumably it would wind up cheaper.

    Quote Originally Posted by timo96 View Post
    Jenson and LBS have both agreed, either this rear derailleur or the Road Link should work with an 11-36 cassette. Thanks for the clues!!

    The next hurdle is, nobody can find replacement chainrings for the ones that are worn in the front. And if I have to get a whole new crankset, I'm not sure which ones are directly compatible. Vaya is only three years old, but it looks like the Ultegra 10-spd triple is officially obsolete......sigh.

    Quote Originally Posted by EasyRider View Post
    I've also got a 46/30 FSA crankset on that bike. I think FSA may be the first big maker to be offering this combo, which up to now has been kind of a boutique item. Seems like these cranks could be the key piece of the puzzle if you're trying to have even lower gearing that what you have now, with a 30t granny ring on the Ultegra triple.
    I like that idea too, but wouldn't I have to change the front der and possibly shifter?

    Quote Originally Posted by Sunyata View Post
    I am going to assume that you have not read my DK200 race report.
    Nonsense, of course I did! Reading about crazy adventures is sometimes more fun than actually doing them. Real point taken, C&O Canal gravel/mud is likely a contributor to what did in this drivetrain.

    Appreciate all the input!

  3. Likes Sunyata liked this post
  4. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Falls Church, VA
    Posts
    605
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ginacico View Post
    Vaya is only three years old, but it looks like the Ultegra 10-spd triple is officially obsolete......sigh.
    I don't know about that.

    Although, you could probably re-shoe your current crank with these baubles:

    https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...35&category=50
    https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...20&category=50
    https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...97&category=50

  5. Likes ginacico liked this post
  6. #24
    TwoWheelsDC's Avatar
    TwoWheelsDC is online now I really need to log off the internet and go for a ride.
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Capitol Hill
    Posts
    3,416
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ginacico View Post
    Vaya is only three years old, but it looks like the Ultegra 10-spd triple is officially obsolete......sigh.
    Have you tried some of the European sites? Seems like triples are easier to find in Europe. For example:


    https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content...mid%5B931%5D=1

  7. Likes ginacico liked this post
  8. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Arlington, VA
    Posts
    361
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bentbike33 View Post
    I don't know about that.
    Maybe. To be more specific, current crankset is Ultegra 6750. I'm challenged to find direct replacements.

  9. #26
    hozn's Avatar
    hozn is offline I really need to log off the internet and go for a ride.
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Arlington
    Posts
    3,203
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ginacico View Post
    Maybe. To be more specific, current crankset is Ultegra 6750. I'm challenged to find direct replacements.
    Are you sure? The 6750 is a compact double crankset. Maybe I misread above; I thought you had a triple currently.

    The one linked above looks to be the correct replacement part -- or get the 105 version (5703) if you want to save $100 and don't care about saving a few grams. Edit: while the Salsa website doesn't provide model number, I find references in online classified ads for this build having a FC-6703. You can also get that crankset for less than $200 on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...-6703&_sacat=0

    I would stick with a triple if you don't want to mess with replacing your left shifter.
    Last edited by hozn; 06-21-2017 at 11:03 AM.

  10. Likes ginacico liked this post
  11. #27
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Arlington, VA
    Posts
    361
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by hozn View Post
    Are you sure? The 6750 is a compact double crankset. Maybe I misread above; I thought you had a triple currently.
    Nope, totally not sure, and I was having the same confusion. The bike is in the shop, could've been a communication error but I'm waiting for them to call back and verify.

    Quote Originally Posted by hozn View Post
    The one linked above looks to be the correct replacement part -- or get the 105 version (5703) if you want to save $100 and don't care about saving a few grams. Edit: while the Salsa website doesn't provide model number, I find references in online classified ads for this build having a FC-6703. You can also get that crankset for less than $200 on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...-6703&_sacat=0

    I would stick with a triple if you don't want to mess with replacing your left shifter.
    Yeah, that's my inclination. And if FC-6703 is a drop-in replacement, that's exactly what I'll do (with change-ups in the rear). This is a 28+ pound [behemoth] absolute joy of a bike, before the rack and fenders. Standard caveat applies: if dropping weight is the goal, real effort should be focused on the engine. But I do opt for lighter parts when possible.

    Thanks so much for your help!!

  12. Likes hozn liked this post
  13. #28
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Falls Church, VA
    Posts
    605
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ginacico View Post
    And if FC-6703 is a drop-in replacement, that's exactly what I'll do (with change-ups in the rear).
    Probably no need to replace the whole crankset. You would just need the rings (recommend the source TwoWheelsDC posted, or let LBS get them), and the bottom bracket bearings. It's really hard to wear out the cranks themselves.

  14. Likes hozn, ginacico liked this post
  15. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Crystal City to L'Enfant Plaza
    Posts
    2,101
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Let me look at home. As part of the VVIL yard sale, I bought a Ultegra compact crankset as a "spare". If you need it, it is available.

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Arlington, VA
    Posts
    361
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dbb View Post
    Let me look at home. As part of the VVIL yard sale, I bought a Ultegra compact crankset as a "spare". If you need it, it is available.
    Thanks dbb, but it turns out I'll stick with the Ultegra triple. I confirmed model numbers with LBS, and the chainrings are readily available. Plan is to drop off a box of parts and let them do the build/tune. No ding on them, they've been more than cooperative, sometimes it just pays to do the research and hunt down parts myself.

    With everyone's help, of course, thanks all! I'm basically getting a new Ultegra drivetrain for pretty cheap, complete with lower gears. Maybe in another three years I'll make a different decision, but right now I can't wait to have Vaya back!

  17. Likes hozn, EasyRider liked this post

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •