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Thread: Seeking wheel advice

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by ctankcycles View Post
    The question is do you have a $60 bell to go with your $60 cages?
    Ha, yes I do. :-) though I bought my Spurcycle back on Kickstarter when it was a more "reasonable" $45 for the black one. :-)

    I would probably buy one of the Crane if faced with that choice today, but the Spurcycle is a great bell, though.

    And to be fair, I have had some really bad wheel experiences. Especially factory wheels or cheap eBay "hand-built" (domestic) options. Broken spokes, detensioning during rides, etc. So I definitely think going cheap is not wise. But then there is Honda vs Porsche and so far I am happy with Honda wheels.

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    Speaking as a mechanic, I'd say the biggest question you need to answer with regards to boutique hubs is how many times do you want to rebuild them? I've trashed shimano 105 hubs and rebuilt them mostly yearly and no matter what they're still a bit grumbly. I've replaced bearings in Bitex and Novatec hubs, and yes, they'll spin smooth, but only for a season (or less, in the rain/CX). I've rebuilt enough CKing hubs to know that if the owner got 20k miles out of them over 5+ years, I can resurrect them for another 20k miles and they'll be spinning as smooth as the day they came off the production line. The machining tolerances and quality of materials you're paying for make a difference when the total milage gets into the multiple tens-of-thousands.

    That being said, the Bitex and Novatecs offer incredible value for the dollar. I run them on everything but my commuter bike.

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  4. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by hozn View Post
    Ha, yes I do. :-) though I bought my Spurcycle back on Kickstarter when it was a more "reasonable" $45 for the black one. :-)

    I would probably buy one of the Crane if faced with that choice today, but the Spurcycle is a great bell, though.

    And to be fair, I have had some really bad wheel experiences. Especially factory wheels or cheap eBay "hand-built" (domestic) options. Broken spokes, detensioning during rides, etc. So I definitely think going cheap is not wise. But then there is Honda vs Porsche and so far I am happy with Honda wheels.
    I'm not a fan of factory wheelsets but for a budget wheelset I wouldn't consider Velomine a cheap eBay "hand-built." They're a real shop in IL with an online store and a solid reputation (lots of positive reviews online). I have four wheelsets from them and they've all been solid. One with Formula hubs to Archetypes (singlespeed commuter), another with 105 to H Plus Son TB14 (88 Paramount), another with XT 6-bolts to 650b Velocity Blunts (AWOL), and a set on my wife's Soma Buena Vista with 105 to A23s. All of these were somewhere between $199 and $229 which has proven to be a great value given the quality of the parts and build.

    While these wheelsets have been great and I think are appropriate for the bikes they're attached to, I can also appreciate the CK R45s to Belgiums on my Geekhouse road bike, the set of T-11s to Archetypes on another road bike, and the old set of King Classics that are on their fourth set of rims and currently on my cx/gravel bike. And with a Geekhouse cx/gravel on the way I had Matt Moore at District Cycle Works build up a set of Industry 9 to Belgium +. I also highly recommend Bill Mound at Spokes in Alexandria and the good folks at Bikenetic. I've had wheels build buy all those mentioned and they've all been great.

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    I'm getting my next set of wheels from this guy I think (he's back in DC, hopefully for a good while):
    http://bicyclecomplex.blogspot.com/2...ic-speaks.html

  6. #25
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    Yeah, I didn't mean to imply that Velomine is a bad option. I think my wheels were from some rocky mountainbike shop. They were terrible. I had to ship them back to get them fixed. That was almost the last time I let someone else build me wheels. It should have been the last time :-)

    Sent from my LEX727 using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by ctankcycles View Post
    I actually bought a couple Arundel Dave-O cages when they first came out around 2000 and they're still going strong.
    Maybe this is a naive question, but why wouldn't a water bottle cage (unless it's plastic) last forever? It's not like it's a moving part.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve O View Post
    Maybe this is a naive question, but why wouldn't a water bottle cage (unless it's plastic) last forever? It's not like it's a moving part.
    aesthetics? I put metal coffee cups into my cages during my commute, which scratches them up over time and eventually makes them ugly. So I replace them every so many years, or switch them out to coordinate with my handlebar tape when I change the color of that.

    You could probably break one in a bike crash, but I haven't crashed hard enough to find out yet.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve O View Post
    Maybe this is a naive question, but why wouldn't a water bottle cage (unless it's plastic) last forever? It's not like it's a moving part.
    I've broken aluminum ones and carbon ones. I haven't broken any that are plastic, but I've thrown them out after finding they were too flexible to allow the bottle to go back in easily.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve O View Post
    Maybe this is a naive question, but why wouldn't a water bottle cage (unless it's plastic) last forever? It's not like it's a moving part.
    In mountain biking, you inevitably get grit between the bottle and cage which will act like sandpaper. After hundreds of insertions and removals, it wears through (in my case, aluminum and titanium). I've also seen a few crack at the welds.

  13. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by huskerdont View Post
    I've broken aluminum ones and carbon ones.
    There's your problem. My cast iron ones are not breakable.

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