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Thread: Going from a triple to a double - what don't I know?

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    Quote Originally Posted by hozn View Post
    http://www.jtekengineering.com/shift...harts-choices/

    Shiftmate 6?

    I would probably get a SRAM RD and use a shiftmate. Then you are 1 step closer to having a better shifting group :-) Plus SRAM 10sp road/mtb RD will work with 11sp road, so forward compatible.

    Plus SRAM really supports 1x much better.
    Based on the limited time I've had it, I LOVE SRAM shifting. Going to convert my road bike to 11spd SRAM (+tubeless) this summer. Switching completely is definitely the better option, but obviously is going to be costlier and more labor intensive.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jrenaut View Post
    From earlier in the thread - I'm essentially trying to replicate the gear range i currently use at 3X10 with a 1X10. Pretty sure the whole drivetrain is shot so the only thing I was hoping to save was the brifter.
    Seriously, if you're replacing most of the drivetrain, I'd say switch over to SRAM 1x.

    SRAM shifters brift so much better than Shimano. They shrake so much better, too.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Harry Meatmotor View Post
    Seriously, if you're replacing most of the drivetrain, I'd say switch over to SRAM 1x.

    SRAM shifters brift so much better than Shimano. They shrake so much better, too.
    This sounds like great advice, but it at least doubles the cost, right? I have to replace chain, cranks, and cassette. If I stick with Shimano I can probably leave my brake/shifter combo and my rear derailleur.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jrenaut View Post
    This sounds like great advice, but it at least doubles the cost, right? I have to replace chain, cranks, and cassette. If I stick with Shimano I can probably leave my brake/shifter combo and my rear derailleur.
    Running SRAM Rival 22 (right hand/rear shift combo) would be like $100 or so. One other question - does the bike run full length housing for the shifting?
    Last edited by Harry Meatmotor; 03-30-2017 at 11:50 AM. Reason: Rival, not Apex!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Harry Meatmotor View Post
    Running SRAM Apex 22 (right hand/rear shift combo) would be like $100 or so. One other question - does the bike run full length housing for the shifting?
    Yeah but not switching to SRAM costs $0 and takes less time.

    No to full length housing - it's just to the top of the downtube and then the last few inches. Mostly exposed cable.

  8. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrenaut View Post
    This sounds like great advice, but it at least doubles the cost, right? I have to replace chain, cranks, and cassette. If I stick with Shimano I can probably leave my brake/shifter combo and my rear derailleur.
    You don't need to replace the crank, I don't think. I thought you were replacing the cassette already? And yes, you have to replace chain either way.

    RD needs to be replaced if you want a clutch RD. E.g. Apex 1 long-cage.

    And you need/want a narrow-wide ring.

    But yeah, I could see things start adding up if you go all-in for new drivetrain+group.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jrenaut View Post
    This sounds like great advice, but it at least doubles the cost, right? I have to replace chain, cranks, and cassette. If I stick with Shimano I can probably leave my brake/shifter combo and my rear derailleur.
    I guess it depends on what you plan to use the bike for. If you're just cruising around town, then going cheap makes sense. If this is going to be a bike you'll put a lot of miles on doing longer rides, then spending the extra money to do it right is probably the better option. Keeping your shifters/brake levers and derailleur will save you about $200 (~$75 for RD, ~$90 for rear shifter, ~$40 for non-shifting brake lever).

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    Quote Originally Posted by hozn View Post
    You don't need to replace the crank, I don't think. I thought you were replacing the cassette already? And yes, you have to replace chain either way.
    I have a triple now (50/39/30) and want to go to a single 44. Is that what narrow/wide ring means? A single that fits where the triple was?

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    Quote Originally Posted by jrenaut View Post
    I have a triple now (50/39/30) and want to go to a single 44. Is that what narrow/wide ring means? A single that fits where the triple was?
    Narrow wide chainring is where the teeth alternate between thick and thin. Here're examples:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Yeah, if you use a narrow wide chainring, you don't want it shifting between it and other rings because the chain gaps need to fit in the proper width teeth, and there's no guarantee that it will if you move it back and forth. Plus, they aren't optimized for shifting like modern chainrings with pins, pickups, and cutouts that make shifting more smooth.
    Last edited by drevil; 03-30-2017 at 12:41 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by drevil View Post
    Narrow wide chainring is where the teeth alternate between thick and thin.
    So what does that do?

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