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Thread: Your latest bike project?

  1. #81
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    Version 1 of the frame design. Using couplers ended up restricting my tube size options. I'm going w/ 35mm top/down tubes; my other option is 44mm, which is just ridiculously huge.

    Otherwise, it's pretty close to nailed.

    Changes to this design include, switching to a seat stay bridge in this style:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    And swapping the cable routing to the top of the frame, as my current frame does. Routing on top of top tube and inside seat stays sounds about perfect. The Foundry Overland still ranks up there as the perfect frame in my mind:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    This frame will end up being pretty similar to that frame, actually. Other than geometry and of course the travel couplers.
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    Last edited by hozn; 02-23-2017 at 09:22 PM.

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  3. #82
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    Man I sure like looking over your frame build prints. They need to figure a good way to route the hydro brake tubing internally. Bends and turns don't mater with fluid. Front could run inside the H bar, stem, right down the steerer to the caliper. That and electronic shift would make for a real clean bike

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vicegrip View Post
    Man I sure like looking over your frame build prints. They need to figure a good way to route the hydro brake tubing internally. Bends and turns don't mater with fluid. Front could run inside the H bar, stem, right down the steerer to the caliper. That and electronic shift would make for a real clean bike
    Oh, they can route cables internally. For this bike, given the couplers, I didn't want to deal with disconnecting the hoses (and probably having to rebleed the disc brakes on install), so zip-tie "stops" everywhere. On my road frame the hoses are routed internally in the down tube (with little tubes inside the tube, which makes it pretty hassle-free). It's not quite as clean as it could be since that bike is setup to use a front derailleur and only 2 of the three cables are routed internally - there are zip-tie stops for the brake hose, but since I'm running 1x the hose is using the FD routing inside the tube. On the chain stay, I opted to avoid internal routing (though they can do it), figuring I probably don't want to compromise the structure of those little tubes for a small aesthetic improvement.

    Here's a recent example of someone (also using Walty) doing internal routing: http://www.spanner.org.uk/2017/02/ma...ike-by-waltly/

    (In general that Spanner blog / the author, Andrew is a great resource for this stuff.)

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  6. #84
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    I think that'll be the final version.

    This seatstay bridge looks a lot classier (and more functional with my removable fender setup).

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  7. #85
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    Now for the fork!

    I have a great fork now (the Spot CX fork), but it's QR and I would really rather have a thru-axle front fork. Now that the frame will support a tapered head tube, this becomes possible. (AFAIK, there are no straight-steerer thru-axle forks.)

    Here's a fork that's pretty hard to find:
    - Full carbon, CX a2c length (395-400mm)
    - Clearance for 38+mm tires
    - Tapered steerer
    - External cable routing (because travel frame)
    - Post-mount disc-brake (flat-mount could work, but prefer to use what I have and the adapters for 160F look ridiculous)
    - And, the real unicorn, fender mounts

    As far as I know there are only a couple name-brand forks that fits these criteria. The new/redesigned Whisky No. 9 CX fork:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    And the Niner RLT Gravel

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    Those are great options, but they're very expensive ($500-550) and very rarely show up on the used market (e.g. ebay).

    I also looked at CX forks from TRP (internal routing), Ritchey WCS (no fender), Parlee (I think no fender?), and anything else I could find.

    I also looked at the the open mold offerings and contacted Hongfu, Miracle, LT Bikes, Carbonal, and probably a couple other folks to see if they had something that fit the specs.

    Nancy from Hongfu proposed the FK288:


    Sure, that looks great, except no fender mounts. (This is also the fork -- or an identically named version that has slightly different geometry(?) -- that other sellers, such as Miracle, offer.)

    But Nancy indicated that this is available with fender mounts upon request. Awesome!



    They're a little higher on the fork legs than I might have spec'd if I were choosing it myself, but it looks like there will definitely be no concern with caliper interference up there. And since fenders are a part-time affair for this bike, I'm not particularly worried about the aesthetics of the fender-stay angle.

    The Whisky No 9 would be my first choice. But for 1/4 the price, I'll go the Hongfu route and maybe upgrade later. (Looks like the Whisky will clear larger tires, whereas the Hongfu might be a tight fit for a 40mm tire.) I'm really happy with my Hongfu road fork. They make solid stuff (usually a little heavier than the name-brand stuff, but in my sample size of 1, I've found that Whisky's claimed weights are significantly -- e.g. 10% -- lower than actual weights.)
    Last edited by hozn; 03-02-2017 at 07:13 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hozn View Post
    Now for the fork!
    OK. I know you'd be more than capable of installing some metric nutzerts on any of those forks in the position specified on the Hongfu. SRSLY. Measure 19 times. Then just be careful drilling, pilot first, then step up 1/8" at a time, then drill to final bore with a drill-stop (e.g., blue painter's tape wrapped around the bit at the depth you want to drill to) so there's no chance of drilling into the opposite inner face of the fork leg. Many bike shops have metric nutzert pliers to install them—takes maybe 5-10 minutes per side. DO EEET.

  10. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harry Meatmotor View Post
    OK. I know you'd be more than capable of installing some metric nutzerts on any of those forks in the position specified on the Hongfu. SRSLY. Measure 19 times. Then just be careful drilling, pilot first, then step up 1/8" at a time, then drill to final bore with a drill-stop (e.g., blue painter's tape wrapped around the bit at the depth you want to drill to) so there's no chance of drilling into the opposite inner face of the fork leg. Many bike shops have metric nutzert pliers to install them—takes maybe 5-10 minutes per side. DO EEET.
    Yeah, I probably should have just plowed ahead with that plan But I'm fine with them doing that for me, since it doesn't cost anything.

    I also found this in my research:


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  12. #88
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    That fender looks like trouble. Tire clearance is minimal, and no safety breakaway tabs. Plus coverage is poor. Does Calfee offer those or was that an owner's modification?

  13. #89
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    Probably an older photo but such a nice frameset and wheels with... BB7s?

    My Warbird's fork is thru axle with external routing and hidden fender mounts I think. Never looked too closely for the fender mounts though.

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  15. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by EasyRider View Post
    That fender looks like trouble. Tire clearance is minimal, and no safety breakaway tabs. Plus coverage is poor. Does Calfee offer those or was that an owner's modification?
    This was a prototype NAHBS bike, I believe.

    I think that stay retention system should allow for pulling out?

    But, yeah, those fenders look pretty crappy.

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