03-08-2017, 12:21 PM
42x11 is the highest gear on my 1x11 setup. I definitely wouldn't want to lose anymore gear inches at the top of the range, but it seems sufficient for this particular bike. I think I've hit 42x11 a couple of times going down Chain Bridge hill at about 30mph. Definitely wasn't close to being spun out...more like a "comfortably high" cadence at that speed. But on a gravel-oriented bike, I'm generally just gonna coast at speeds any higher than that anyway.
Originally Posted by vvill
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Dislikes, 0 ELITE
03-08-2017, 02:31 PM
Originally Posted by ctankcycles
I haven't ever been tempted to put a double back on my commuter/gravel/cx bike. The simplicity of the 1x is really nice and there's only one small gap I notice. It really was perfect for Monster Cross, though I did drop the chain once there. (But it's so quick to put a chain back on a 1x system without a FD or, heaven forbid, a chain catcher [that failed to do its job].)
To be fair, I'm also not really tempted to put 2x back on my road bike either (50t + 11-40), though I think the gaps would be more apparent there in the group rides. We'll see how I feel at the end of the season.
If you do decide to swap, great suggests from drevil and harry meatmotor on dealing with elegant & quick 1x/2x conversion.
I debated trying to explicitly spec larger 650 clearance, but it was leading down a rabbithole of them wanting to use a chainstay yoke instead of tubes if I wanted 27.5x2.1+" clearance. I'm guessing that the WTB Horizon 49mm would fit in the frame, but may not in the fork. Really 700x40mm give me plenty of versatility for this type of bike.
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Dislikes, 0 ELITE
04-01-2017, 12:08 PM
Your latest bike project?
After switching to SRAM on my gravel bike, I've decided to switch my road bike to 11spd SRAM over the next few months. My rear wheel was 10spd, but it was in need of replacement anyway, so it made sense to just grab a new 11spd compatible wheelset that I can keep 10spd for now and the convert once I move on to swapping out the drivetrain. And since I was getting a new wheelset, I figured I might as well go tubeless. And since I was going tubeless, I figured I could risk moving from Gatorskins to a performance oriented tire. So I bought a set of Ultegra (an insanely good deal) tubeless ready wheels and Schwalbe Pro One tubeless tires.
As seems to be the case with all factory built wheels, the Shimanos came without removable core valves, so I had to buy some Stans. But otherwise, the tires went on relatively easily and seated with my normal pump. They also held air without sealant, but I added some anyway just for the puncture protection. Going tubeless is definitely easier if you can start with tubeless ready stuff. Overall weight savings was about 300 grams, which I think was mostly due to the Pro Ones and losing the tubes. I don't think the new wheels are drastically lighter.
I've read the Schwalbes aren't too durable, but I'm hoping they'll last me until next winter or so.
04-01-2017, 02:28 PM
Schwalbe have been very durable for me. At least the Pro Ones are as durable - or more - than Conti GP4000S tires, which is how they should be compared. Duranos are probably a closer comparison to Gatorskins, but the Pro Ones are much nicer-rolling tires than either. Not having to fix flats has been nice too.
I have never removed valve cores to put in sealant, though -- ok, maybe once, but it was not worth the hassle. Just open up some bead and pour it in. My hand pls thread on so I always red loctite my valve cores else they unthread when removing the pump head.
Edit: I also don't buy valve stems anymore. No-longer-repairable inner tubes offer a much cheaper solution that works just as well as $12 stans stems.
Last edited by hozn; 04-01-2017 at 02:31 PM.
04-01-2017, 03:54 PM
Having lived in puncture vine (Tribulus terrestris) territory for many years before moving here I really can't believe its possible to ride without sealant!
04-01-2017, 04:59 PM
Both of my tubeless wheelsets work fine without sealant, but I still use it. I guess it adds a little bit of hassle, but it's so minor compared to the benefits.
Originally Posted by anomad
04-01-2017, 05:05 PM
AFAIK, the Schwalbe "tubeless easy" means they need sealant to properly hold air. Their way of saying "tubeless ready" I guess. (The sidewalks aren't fully air tight.) Actual UST tires can be run without sealant. Most tires are "tubeless-ready", though.
Originally Posted by TwoWheelsDC
To be clear, I wouldn't run tubeless without sealant; that would defeat the point. I just don't put it in through the valve stem.
04-01-2017, 05:22 PM
That's fair. They held air okay without sealant when I was testing, but I didn't put miles on them without sealant or anything.
Originally Posted by hozn
04-01-2017, 05:44 PM
Yeah, I imagine they would last for a ride (?) But probably not worth an extended test. Nice to see more folks trying out RT. Seems like a trend with merit. Hopefully more tire options will come with time, though the Pro One are pretty nice tires.
04-01-2017, 09:03 PM
Last edited by hozn; 04-01-2017 at 09:06 PM.