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Thread: Solution to foot hitting quick adjust on disc brake

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    Default Solution to foot hitting quick adjust on disc brake

    So, my new Masi CX Comp comes with the disc brake mounted on the chain stay in front of the seat stay. I've noticed that my foot occasionally hits the caliper while pedaling. While grinding a few miles out the towpath yesterday to lengthen the ride home, I eventually clued in that it was getting harder and harder and I was going slower and slower, even though I didn't *think* I was tired. Dismounted and checked everything out, and the brake was tight enough that it was difficult to turn the wheel by hand. The barrel adjuster was most of the way out from my foot hitting it.

    There are mounting holes behind the seat stay, but these are for racks, not a brake. Apparently there's no adapter that can be used to mount it there such as on my Soma mountain bike.

    So, any ideas on preventing this? I have a lower profile pair of shoes that hits it less so that will help to use them for this bike. I might put some tape on it as a temporary fix, but other than gluing the thing down, that's all I got. It's too late for footbinding.

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    Quote Originally Posted by huskerdont View Post
    So, my new Masi CX Comp comes with the disc brake mounted on the chain stay in front of the seat stay. I've noticed that my foot occasionally hits the caliper while pedaling. While grinding a few miles out the towpath yesterday to lengthen the ride home, I eventually clued in that it was getting harder and harder and I was going slower and slower, even though I didn't *think* I was tired. Dismounted and checked everything out, and the brake was tight enough that it was difficult to turn the wheel by hand. The barrel adjuster was most of the way out from my foot hitting it.

    There are mounting holes behind the seat stay, but these are for racks, not a brake. Apparently there's no adapter that can be used to mount it there such as on my Soma mountain bike.

    So, any ideas on preventing this? I have a lower profile pair of shoes that hits it less so that will help to use them for this bike. I might put some tape on it as a temporary fix, but other than gluing the thing down, that's all I got. It's too late for footbinding.
    Try one of these on the left side?

    http://hostelshoppe.com/KNEESAVERS-P...enders-174591/

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    Quote Originally Posted by bentbike33 View Post
    That might work. I used something similar many years ago converting a 1965 Schwinn crank to modern pedals. Thought of them as an adapter, not something to move the foot over. I'm going to give them a try. Thanks!

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    Changing your Q-factor can have physical consequences for your knees, so be sure to listen to your body as you ride those.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dkel View Post
    Changing your Q-factor can have physical consequences for your knees, so be sure to listen to your body as you ride those.
    Definitely. I have enough knee problems as it is. Post-surgery, seems there's always a new thing going on in there I need to pay attention to.

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    You could also use shorter crank arms, if the overlap is slight. This also has effects in bike fit and pedaling efficiency, though. It's possible a different caliper would give the desired effect; that change wouldn't effect your riding position at all.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dkel View Post
    You could also use shorter crank arms, if the overlap is slight. This also has effects in bike fit and pedaling efficiency, though. It's possible a different caliper would give the desired effect; that change wouldn't effect your riding position at all.
    I think it's too much overlap for shortening 5 mm to work. I might look into getting some BB7s instead of the Promax ones that came on stock if other solutions don't work out. The Kneesavers seem like a cheap enough thing to try and toss if it doesn't work (knee or hip pain or pedals hitting on turns). In the meantime, first thing I'll do is a long ride with the other shoes. Their heel is much narrower and smoother so doesn't hit nearly as often and may not turn the barrel.

    Thanks to all for the ideas.

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    You could also just remove the barrel adjuster from the brake caliper, as long as you have one on the lever.

    Although I thought most mechanical disk brake manufacturers recommended against using the barrel adjusters at all in favor of moving the pads.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bentbike33 View Post
    You could also just remove the barrel adjuster from the brake caliper, as long as you have one on the lever.

    Although I thought most mechanical disk brake manufacturers recommended against using the barrel adjusters at all in favor of moving the pads.
    This is a really good point. I don't think my BB7s or my Spyres have barrel adjusters at all.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dkel View Post
    This is a really good point. I don't think my BB7s or my Spyres have barrel adjusters at all.
    It is a good point. I looked at the BB7s on my mountain bike last night and there was no barrel adjuster.

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