I just put a new set of Gatorskins on my road bike. On my old set I'd run up 4000 miles...and no flats! But the contact surface on the old set was completely flat - all the round was worn off the tires, so I figured it was only a matter of time.
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I just put a new set of Gatorskins on my road bike. On my old set I'd run up 4000 miles...and no flats! But the contact surface on the old set was completely flat - all the round was worn off the tires, so I figured it was only a matter of time.
upgraded my tool storage from a smaller Stanley box. Lowes had a deal on a nice multi piece box with a handle and rollers... Now to buy MORE TOOLS!!!
My latest bike purchase was a battery for my Garmin Edge 500. Replacing the battery required
- Acquisition not only of the battery but several specialized tools. (Even Strosniders does not sell anything as small as a Tor-X 5 screwdriver!)
- Finding instructions online. (They are not included in the Edge 500 manual.)
- Refinding the instructions, after the forum on which I originally found them had a glitch that caused it to reject ALL visitors as spam. (For anyone else that needs them, the Google cache of the forum post is here.)
- Accepting that I will no longer have use of the speaker, because attaching the battery to that requires either a soldering iron or a hot glue gun.
I am alternating between being unreasonably proud of having managed this, and ticked with Garmin for making such a simple repair nearly impossible.
No, I didn't have that issue. The problem for me was that the charge, which used to last 12 hours or more, was running out after only 2-3 hours. I was ending up having to turn it off any time I stopped the bike, and still having it run out before I'd finished some of my rides.
Yep, my friend who replaced a battery in an iPhone said the process was similar. The one difference is that the Garmin battery replacement requires a soldering iron, or at least a hot glue gun, if you want to keep the speakers operational. I have neither. A friend offered the use of her soldering iron, but given the difficulty of taking the whole thing apart, and the fact I have no idea how to use a soldering iron, I'm just going to see how much the lack of a speaker drives me nuts before deciding whether to take her up on her offer.
Putting my money where my mouth is- Busch+Muller Ixon Core headlight and a Busch+Muller Toplight Flat S Permanent, which fits the rack perfectly.
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An on-the-road image is available here, at http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/headlights.asp, or http://www.bumm.de/innovation-origin...einwerfer.html. Light on your path of travel without having to *cover your light* to keep from blinding your fellow riders. My point all along.
Finally pulled the trigger. This is going to look sooooo nice paired with the Omniums on my MASH.
http://img.artscyclery.com/big/CKBBRSR-RD-1.jpg
I hope you have better luck than @Dirt or myself had with those BBs. I was thinking this was going to be the best long-term solution, but mine was completely destroyed after 9k miles, which included complete regressing (using their $70 grease fitting tool!!) every 2-3k miles. And then they were going ti replace it for me, but it had welded itself to my frame during that time (note: use anti-seize! grease is not sufficient if you won't be taking it out and regressing it every few thousand miles) so the threads were destroyed. I threw it in the trash and went back to regular cartridge bearing BBs.
On the other hand, they do look nice. You could get a red Hope BB or one of those fancy Enduro cartridge bearing BBs, which also come in red. I have no idea why CK thought that cartridge bearings were a bad idea...
And of course, you are welcome to borrow (or probably have) my grease port tool for that CK BB should you decide to keep it.
I think Dirt's experiences with those was worse than mine.